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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Executive Memo | Navigating the Unravelling of Multibrand Retail

Wholesale remains essential for the luxury industry, but the rules of engagement have changed. Brands need to know how to minimise the risks and maximise the rewards in their relationships with multibrand players.
Executive Memo | Navigating the Unravelling of Multibrand Retail
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Fashion’s wholesale ecosystem is in the midst of structural reset.

For decades, multibrand retail has played a critical role in the industry. For emerging labels, landing the right boutique or department store offered credibility, visibility and a foundation for growth. For established brands, wholesale provided scale, geographic reach and revenue diversification without the fixed costs of operating stores.

Today, that system is under acute strain. A wave of bankruptcies and restructurings — from Matches fashion to Ssense and most recently Saks Global — has forced brands of all sizes to reassess the role multibrand retail should play in their businesses. While Chapter 11 filings provide temporary breathing room for retailers, the broader direction is unmistakable: The old wholesale model is broken, and for many labels, direct-to-consumer sales alone cannot replace the volume it once delivered, particularly in the current environment of softer global demand.

Even as multibrand players remain vital, fashion brands must navigate these relationships with greater discipline, selectivity and strategic intent.

In this memo to BoF’s Executive Members, learn more about:

  • Which multibrand retailers are still succeeding and why
  • How to evaluate wholesale partners in a high-risk environment
  • What terms and structures make sense in today’s market
  • How to balance wholesale volume with brand control
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