Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
AZ Operations, a sub-contractor of Manufactures Dior tasked with the production of leather items and based near Italy’s fashion capital Milan, was accused by Italian prosecutors in June of being a front for an operation that exploited workers.
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An Italian probe linking luxury labels including Dior and Armani to labour exploitation — with the supply chains of up to a dozen more brands under the microscope — has exposed a seedy practice deeply embedded in the luxury system, creating an unpredictable PR crisis at a precarious time for the sector, a BoF investigation has found.
The Prefecture of Milan is aiming to beef up the fashion sector’s monitoring systems after an investigation by Milanese prosecutors found labour exploitation in the supply chains of luxury brands including Armani and Dior. The scheme currently in draft would be voluntary and limited to the Lombardy region.
An independent investigation commissioned by The Fair Labour Association — a human rights monitoring organisation that counts Nike as a member — identified several “significant issues” in a long-standing case of alleged wage theft.
The London-based showroom-turned-brand incubator, which also owns Martine Rose, is being sold to Italy’s Andrea Ciccoli. Founder Stefano Martinetto breaks down the move for BoF in this week’s High Margin luxury newsletter.
Andrea Ciccoli’s Progetto 11, parent of Italian e-commerce firm The Level Group, is taking over the cash-strapped distributor that owns Coperni and Martine Rose.
New CEO Béatrice Goasglas’s experience in client relations and the US market will be put to the test at LVMH’s biggest watch brand TAG Heuer. Plus, a sit-down with two Richemont veterans Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert and A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid.
From online conversation to pricing to early store traffic data, BoF analyses how Kering’s biggest brand is adjusting its strategy, and whether it is working.
Small fashion labels have always been shortchanged by their wholesale partners. A wave of high-profile bankruptcies has turned a structural injustice into an existential crisis. There is a better way to do business, writes Imran Amed.
Fashion’s enfant terrible is trading exclusivity for the mass market. Is it the ultimate fashion coup, or the final surrender of prestige?
Textile hubs are already feeling the cascading risks of the conflict in Iran as Washington ramps up forced labour probes to revive tariffs, while decarbonisation in fashion’s factories might finally have a standard to go off of.
The designer and podcaster joins Imran Amed to reflect on the emotional power of clothes, what Vivienne Westwood taught her about rebellion and how Fashion Neurosis has unlocked a new chapter in her creative life.
